Ask the CounterPro

Counterman.com has a crack team of past Counter Professionals of the Year, editors and and technicians at the ready to answer your technical and general business queries.

Our experts will tackle your questions and post the answers online.

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[email protected] and tell him.

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Latest (10)

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There are a lot of variables at play here. What is the quality of the pads and rotors that you used. Did you even change the pads? What are your stopping habits? Is the truck empty or loaded? All this comes into play. Sometimes all at once. But probably the biggest thing is breaking habits. A ton of folks like to wait till the last possible second to apply their brakes and try to stop in ten feet. What they should be doing is gradually slowing by gently applying the brake. Give yourself a lot of room to stop. Your brakes and your wallet will thank you.

Matthew Vaughn

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Your HVAC has gone into “default” mode, which sends all output to the
defroster if the switching controls fail for any reason. This is done to
make sure the car is safe to drive, you can see out the windshield.

First check for a vacuum leak to the HVAC controls or vacuum motors.

Jim O’Neill
Chino Autotech Inc.

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Questions (42)

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Different people will tell you one brand is better than another. All oil is the same to a certain point. After that, manufacturer’s try to make them better. They put their own blend of additives in to withstand heat better, clean, etc. So, pick the one you like.

As far as viscosity, stick with manufacturers recommended viscosity. The tolerances in engine bearings are a lot smaller than they used to be and a thicker oil could cause damage. Plus, it will void your warranty If it’s a new vehicle.

Matthew Vaughn

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I would recommend that you re-check the application for that new switch
(light only, light + gauge, gauge only) Whatever is causing it, it is a
short to ground in the circuit to the sender when the gauge goes to the top
of the range immediately upon KOEO (key on engine off).

Jim O’Neill
Chino Autotech Inc.

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Yes it could be the General Electronic Module. This diagnosis would require
the Ford scan tool, STAR tester or WDS, to pinpoint the body code (B-series)
and to try to reset it first before replacing it.. There is also programming
involved. The Ford antitheft system software is sometimes, on some models,
split up among different modules, Instrument Cluster Module, GEM, PCM and
others. It gets complicated if you don’t have Ford OEM information
procedures and the scan tool.

Jim O’Neill
Chino Autotech Inc.

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There are a lot of variables at play here. What is the quality of the pads and rotors that you used. Did you even change the pads? What are your stopping habits? Is the truck empty or loaded? All this comes into play. Sometimes all at once. But probably the biggest thing is breaking habits. A ton of folks like to wait till the last possible second to apply their brakes and try to stop in ten feet. What they should be doing is gradually slowing by gently applying the brake. Give yourself a lot of room to stop. Your brakes and your wallet will thank you.

Matthew Vaughn

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0 people found this helpful.


It would be very difficult to diagnose an electrical problem on a 40 year
old vehicle, sight unseen. If you have a good local electrical shop which
specializes in restoration of older vehicles, it might be best to give them
a chance to check the wiring harnesses and circuits.

Jim O’Neill
Chino Autotech Inc.

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