Hard Parts Archives - Page 29 of 29 - Counterman Magazine
I understand that we are an “auto parts ” company, but the customers tend to think that it should cater to both auto parts and plumbing / hardware.

I understand that we are an “auto parts ” company, but the customers tend to think that it should cater to both auto parts and plumbing / hardware. Customers come in and ask for plumbing glue, PVC piping and elbows along with lag bolts, etc. Is there a reason that we don’t cater to both? If we are to be dominant, shouldn’t we?

It seems to never fail that a customer will bring in a reman starter and claim that it is bad.

It seems to never fail that a customer will bring in a reman starter and claim that it is bad. I take the starter to the tester and let it run all applicable test and it tests good. At this point the customer says, “Well it doesn’t do that on my vehicle.” How accurate is the tester compared to a vehicle’s battery as far as cranking power and is there another way to avoid warrantying another starter when you feel that one is good?

A customer complains of noise or vibration in steering of 2003 Suburban.

A customer complains of noise or vibration in steering of 2003 Suburban. He has changed power steering pump and tie rods. Still he has this same issue. Do you have any ideas as to what this may be? Also, do you know of any factory bulletins on any issues of this nature that GM may have?

What can be the first part to replace when trying to increase horsepower on a 4.6 engine?

Depending on how much horsepower you are looking for, the simplest solution is to make your vehicle breath better. Think of an engine as a large air pump, the easier you can bring air in and have it exhaust, the better it will perform. I would suggest change the air filter to a performance or

When I start a Ford Explorer 4.0 SOHC from a cold start, it will rough idle for 5-7 minutes and I must keep my foot on the pedal. Once it’s warmed up, it will idle smoothly. What could cause this?

Anything from an ECT (engine coolant temperature sensor), a faulty IAC (idle air control valve), intake manifold or post MAF (mass airflow) sensor to old, worn-gap spark plugs can cause poor running when cold. Check the plugs and retrieve any DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) for a more clear picture of the problem. Jim O’Neill Chino

What are the advantages of a cross-drilled, vented rotor versus a stock vented rotor?

What are the advantages of a cross-drilled, vented rotor versus a stock vented rotor? I recently had a customer return a pair of stock rotors for his truck because “they just won’t stop it”. My common sense tells me that a cross-drilled rotor has less surface area for the brake pad to grab, therefore less stopping power. The only advantage I
could see with a cross-drilled rotor was the ability to dissipate heat more efficiently. The guy had some kind of 36-inch lift if that has anything to do with it.

Ford F-150: Heated vs. Non-Heated PCV Valves

A customer recently came into my store looking for a PCV valve for a 2004 Ford F-150 with a Triton 5.4L. The part he was given wasn’t anything like what he needed. My question is two-fold, 1) What are the Ford engineers thinking and 2) what is the correct part? It looks nothing like a normal
PCV valve, it has a wiring harness connector on it. The worst part is, none of our vendors offered anything like it. Not even Motorcraft.